Notes from Jaipur

What fits into two days in Udaipur, when the light on Lake Pichola is best, how to get there from Jaipur, and what to cut if you only have one…

Jama Masjid, Chandni Chowk, Humayun’s Tomb and Qutub Minar in one day: a route that works, with timings, tickets and where to stop for lunch.

Fatehpur Sikri adds about three hours to an Agra day trip. What is there, what it costs, and when the detour is worth it — and when it is not.

Hawa Mahal lit up, the view from Nahargarh, night markets and rooftop dinners. How to spend an evening in Jaipur and when each spot is at its best.

Block print, gemstones, blue pottery and juttis. Where Jaipur’s real workshops are, what fair prices look like, and how commission shops actually work.

Dal baati churma, pyaaz kachori, laal maas and lassi: what Jaipur actually eats, where to try it, and what to be careful with on a first trip.

Four to five hours of highway, or a day with three stops that most people drive straight past. The second is better and costs the same.

Most visitors spend ninety minutes at Amber and see about a third of it. A route through the four courtyards, and the rooms people walk straight past.

The shopping stop is the oldest trick in Indian tourism. Here is exactly how it works, and the four questions that get you a straight answer before you book.

October to March is the answer everyone gives. It is right, but it hides a lot of useful detail about what each month is actually like.