Delhi

Delhi is two cities that share a name and very little else. Shahjahanabad — Old Delhi — is a seventeenth-century Mughal capital of lanes, mosques and spice markets, best seen on foot and by rickshaw. New Delhi is Lutyens’ imperial capital, all axis and avenue, and best seen from a car.

Most travellers meet Delhi twice: once on arrival, jet-lagged, and once on the way out. Either is enough for the highlights if the day is planned properly.